Sweeping generalizations about nations are volatile, but I’m inclined to risk it with Switzerland: it’s high-priced, enamel-achingly polite, green and profoundly committed to dairy fat. Heritage, a new Swiss-inspired restaurant, lovingly crafted from wood, leather, and guns-grade LDL cholesterol, manages three out of the four, though the lack of efficiency wasn’t their fault.
Shortly after the starters have been cleared, we have been approached via the restaurant’s proprietor. We’d already escalated from the common-or-garden waiter who served my companions before I arrived, to the restaurant’s manager after I was given there. Now we had the boss.
For the second time in a week, he stated, constructing works alongside Rupert Street right here on the threshold of London’s Soho had killed all of the power, such as to the kitchen. The lighting has been simplest being stored on by way of an emergency supply. This supposed they couldn’t whole our order. One major route changed into high-quality, but a fish dish was out.
The potato gratin we’d ordered might be served because there was sufficient residual warmth within the oven. At the give up, while he attempted to offer the complete meal without cost, I demurred. He ought to comp the price of the alternative for that fish dish. And that way I could write approximately the meal because, whilst they dealt with the outage quite properly, it surely didn’t impact upon the essentials of our night time of Alpine pleasure, served amid the humid depths of a London summertime.
Which is the primary oddity: why could you open an eating place serving food particularly designed to get you through a snowfall, within the depths of summertime? A quick statement of interest. My spouse’s mom becomes Swiss. Fondues have been eaten unironically in my house for years. I realize approximately the virtuous interaction of various cheeses. I know all approximately the booze-fuelled cheese comas that comply with. I stay for booze-fuelled cheese comas.
And now here’s Heritage, an orgy of varnished darkish wood, banquette and heel click on. They are bringing us pleasant deep-fried balls of Gruyère because cheese dropped inside the deep-fats fryer is a strategy to maximum matters. We have (sold in) bread and butter whipped with truffle oil, and a wine listing that doesn’t accept as true with it’s viable to offer anything under £30 a bottle.
We additionally have speeches, tableside. Particular dishes are advocated as if they’re kids who’ve simply aced sports day. This complete “can I suggest” factor by no means ceases to baffle me. So you’re no longer recommending the other starters? Surely, they’re all of your youngsters? It virtually can’t be because the steak tartare you’re selling is the second one most costly choice. That might be tacky.
I forget about him and pick out the rosti with maple-glazed lardons and a Tomette de Brebis cheese. He tells me it’s a terrific desire after which recites all of the matters we’ve simply read on the menu. I gained’t bang on approximately this because you presently get the idea.
It’s the sort of provider this is determined to thrill, but can’t help making you flinch. We get a proper slab of rosti, the crust of golden fried potato giving way to something softer within the center. The cheese is rolling away in all instructions. The bits of smoked bacon is salty and sweet. It is a nutritional outrage and therefore completely marvelous, as it has to be for £14.